I have a 1981 HD FXE. The issue is in the wiring system. If I have the wiring hooked up properly for starting, it keeps cranking. I then have to disengage the wire from the battery for it to stop. I have changed the relays, breakers, solenoid, starter, double checked all of the wiring according to my diagram and everything is wired correctly. Can you provide any assistance? I am preparing my bike for heading to Sturgis and would really appreciate your help.

Thanks

Doug C

Hi Doug,

This might be a condition known as run on. It is caused by a weak battery, poor charging system or high resistance in an old wiring harness. The amperage draw to turn the starter causes the contacts in the solenoid to burn and weld themselves together. This can happen after just one start. I would start with a new h/d battery and solenoid. You should also update the relay from the old large style beneath the battery box to a new automotive style black Bosch brand. Use your stock h/d manual for troubleshooting and an 88 to 90 Softail manual for the relay update.

Follow up from Doug:

Just to update you on the problem that can now be considered solved. The problem was the spring at the bottom of the solenoid was too long (was the one shipped with the solenoid). Putting in a spacer, removed the grounding issue. This was nothing that anybody could figure out. Even one of the top bike builders in the states, who is a friend of my wife’s. Thanks again for your assistance.

Doug

My Question to y’all, do you think it is reasonable to be charged for a Steering Neck Adjustment at 5,000 miles,( instead of warranty claim)? All the HD Touring service manuals state lubricate at 1k, 10k and 20k and an adjustment isn’t even needed till 25,000 miles. I took it in due to some knocking in the steering neck area to Mancuso Harley, Houston and they just called to tell me the “steering neck adjustment” would be $125 and that he checked with Harley and they wouldn’t cover it because it’s a wear item. A steering neck adjustment is a wear item at 5,000 miles? Thanks for any advice and comments….BUT I’m on my way to pick it up NOW.

Don S.

Don,

I myself would contact someone at h/d about this dealers practice. No I do not think this is reasonable but if 125 dollars corrects the problem it may be worth it. Years ago h/d had a rash of steering bearings that would settle in the frame and races and cause clunking or banging. I was in the dealer at the time and we warranted many of these motorcycles. It was time consuming but all were covered under warranty.Wrench Safe, FMH

UPDATE FROM ONE OF OUR USERS:

Dennis, saw the bit from Don S. about the knocking noise and the dealer’s Steering Neck Adjustment. I too had a case where I got a knock once in awhile (got a ’99 Road King). What I found was that the main nut at the top of the forks was about 1/8 turn loose. Found too that the lock plate with the tabs that need to be bent up against the nut weren’t, they were flat against the base. I guess that allowed the nut to get loose. Tightened up the nut, folded the tabs against the nut, and the knock went away. Just passing along FYI in case it’s helpful.

Enjoy all your stuff.

Many thanks,

Paul

I have a 1994 FXDWG and the oil drain plug is starting to strip the threads on the pan. Is there a way to fix this? Thanks, Greg

Hi Greg,

Just replace the pan, it’s not that hard to do and can be done in the frame. It’s also not that expensive new from h/d. Do not repair in the motorcycle. Chips of metal will cause damage and the wall of the pan is to thin to properly retain a helicoil or timesert.Wrench Safe, FMH

I recently had to replace my battery in my 2002 Screaming Eagle Road King. Everything was fine after the R&R. I managed to get one ride in before having to store the bike for approximately 2 months. The siren started going off and fob will not disable it. In one instance I even disconnected the battery while the siren was going. It did not stop for about 30 seconds. I am not sure where the siren module is located to check the back up battery or if that is even the problem. I am hoping you can help.

Thank you

Start by replacing the battery in the key fob, and fully charge the m/c battery, you should be fine.Wrench Safe, FMH

I’m kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place. Just went out and got on my 2000 Glide, turned on the switch, waited for the engine light to go out, hit the start and everything just died! Nothing, nada! Checked all the fuses and connections at the battery all seem to be alright. It’s as if somebody stole the ignition switch or battery, just totally dead! Ran fine this morning, road it to work! Any suggestions would be helpful.

Randy

Hi Randy,

Always start with the easy parts first, check with a test light at the main breaker (should be clearly marked in your fuse box under the seat). Check battery voltage at the red 10 gauge wire coming from the starter motor to the main breaker. Check battery voltage at the battery. Check all grounds. Use your service manual. It has a great troubleshooting section on this problem. I have seen batteries go bad (plates break inside). Cables both neg and pos break internally but look intact (turn switch on and wiggle both cables and see what happens). I have also had the tumbler inside the ignition switch break, again wiggle all wires first then check for voltage in and out. Take your time, use common sense and your wiring diagram. I’m sure you can find the cause. Always think simple first, also has anything been worked on or added on recently may be the place to start!Wrench Safe, FMH

I have a 1999 FLHTC I just had new cams and replaced the chains to a gear drive. I had the Harley dealer do it and when I test drove it the thing back fired a bunch of times but once real bad. The dude forgot to tighten the muffler clamp to the motor. Since then it has broken down every time I ride it. All the electrical goes out except the one light on the speedometer. Do you have any idea what is going wrong? They said they checked all the wires, fuse box and sensors. I am thinking computer, they keep getting a barometer reading and some theft attempt on it. They replaced the maps sensor, free labor and I had to pay for the part.

Thank you,

Dan D.

P.S. I like the DVD. I have taken my fearing off and replaced my speakers recently and will be servicing it soon.

Hi Dan,Very rarely do computer control modules just go bad. There is usually an underlying cause. Was the m/c reprogrammed with the cam change? Why were the cams changed? I would give this dealer a fair chance to fix the mess they created, and then I would contact h/d directly about the dealer and the problem, and bring it to another dealer. I would also be prepared to trace the changes back until the problem is repaired (may mean reinstalling stock cams, and another stock programmed control module) First rule of thumb is to always check the simple components first battery, connections, cables, fuses, and wiring harness. Use your service manual and the wiring diagram. Remove all fuses except the ones needed for the m/c to run. See what happens. Keep adding fuses until problem appears.Wrench Safe, FMH

I replaced rear brake pads over the weekend on my 2007 FLHRS. I own the touring set of DVD’s and had watched them first, as well as carefully following the shop guide. When I tried to reinsert the caliper pins I encountered resistance on the inboard side. I tried every trick I knew as well as re-consulting your DVD’s, the HD Forums, the HD shop guide and even called a couple of service departments. I ended up finding out on my own after a couple of hours that there are two critical pieces that are pressed into the receiving holes on the inboard caliper. Inside each hole is a split metal ring, followed by a metal bushing. Apparently as the pins are screwed into place, the pointed end passes through those pieces, which help stabilize it and probably protect it from shear forces during braking. Unknown to me, during the removal of the pins, those pieces had shifted and when I went to reinsert the pins the pressure I’d put on them trying to screw them in had damaged them further, misshaping them and preventing the pins from going back into place. I really think you need to include something about these on your DVD. Even the guys at the parts counters don’t have these parts shown on any schematic, and you can’t reorder just these pieces–you are forced to replace the entire caliper assembly. I’ve always made things on my own when I couldn’t find replacements–and I ended up buying bushing materials from a local hardware store and refabricating them (one of the sets had been pulled out but they were still in good enough shape to re-use and to use as templates. Doing this saved me around $200 for a replacement caliper so it bears mentioning in your Touring Edition set. Harley should be ashamed of themselves for not including this in their manual as well–and for not offering replacement rings (now I’m just venting!). Anyway, I just wanted to let you know.

Sincerely,

Terry J

Hi Terry,No, I have not had that happen. As you know, there have been many caliper and braking component changes in the past few years. The most likely cause of this problem is the lack of regular maintenance on the pins; the pins should be serviced and lubed the entire life of the pads. As we state on the DVDs; thread bolts in by hand, if you are having trouble getting the bolt in STOP, look around and assess the situation, at the Harley-Davison factory they did not have to fight to get the bolt in, either should we. Terry, thank you for your email and tip.Wrench Safe, FMH

What chemical can I use to help dissolve/remove the tank liner in my Harley-Davidson manufactured gas tank? I tried soaking in Acetone for 24 hours (as Kreem recommends), then shaking for 4 hours with gravel and hex nuts and barely anything has come off.

Roger K

Hi Roger,

I have tried and tried again with no luck. I finally found a local radiator shop that pressure boils out whatever is loose, and then re-lines it with the red radiator sealant. This works perfectly every time and resolves the gray tank liner issue. The other option is to buy a replacement tank and wish for the best. The shop is Durable Radiator on Thomaston Ave. Waterbury, CT – Dave George is the owner.Wrench Safe, FMH

Will the drive belt being to tight blow the transmission seal?

JR

Yes, but be aware that many other underlying issues can cause this area to leak like mileage, not properly torqueing the sprocket nut and if the sprocket and spacer were updated. Please keep in mind that, this area has a number of components that create a seal. The inner spacer and quad seal should always be replaced as a pair. Make sure belt tension is being set in the tightest position with rider and passenger weight on the motorcycle.Wrench Safe, FMH

I have a 2006 Fat Boy and went on a ride the other weekend when the starter engaged by itself going down the highway. I was able to get to the side of the road and shut the bike off. I turned the ignition switch on and the bike would start without hitting the start button. I took apart the run and start button on the side of the road. There was a little water from me washing the bike the night before. I dried them off and everything is normal again. Do you think water might have been the cause of this and should I change the primary oil because the starter engaged when the bike was running? Ron

Hi Ron,

Yes, water is an excellent conductor of electricity. Fluids are cheap I would change the primary fluid and inspect the small pinion gear at the end of the starter jackshaft and the large ring gear at the back of the clutch hub for damage and possible missing teeth. Look closely at the fluid you remove for metal pieces or a metallic sheen. I have also had chrome control housings not fit so well and cause this problem when they are exposed to heat and expand.Wrench Safe, FMH